MyBodyModel for plus-size sketching

Recently I’ve made a lot more wardrobe orphans than usual (light sky-ish blue pants that don’t go with any of my tops being a prime example) and I’ve also not been sketching my makes as much. I’d like to start doing that more, both before I cut-and-sew but also before I purchase fabric. Hopefully this will cut down on the amount of fabric in my stash that I like, but can’t really see myself wearing (although I suppose I’ll have to get rid of some of my current ‘unwearable fabric’ first)!

I used my MyBodyModel croquis here and until the 3rd of February you can get 15% off custom croquis with the code SEWSOUTHERN.

I don’t get anything from telling you that, but Erica has offered to donate 15% of the sales from folks using the discount code towards the ticket sponsorship scheme for the Christchurch frocktails event I’m helping to organise called the Sew Southern Makers Night Out

I used my croquis to sketch out some of my upcoming sewing plans, and even though my sketching is terrible (I use the adobe sketch app on my phone), I still find it incredibly helpful!

MyBodyModel 3

Two of my upcoming garments are Elbe Cornell shirts (and a Cornell dress hack inspired by a currently unphotographed make from Naomi.Joy.Creates)! I already have the bright pink cotton, but I’d love a black silk noil shirt version too!

MyBodyModel 2

I’m planning a couple of jackets- on the left is a cropped version of a forthcoming M&B quilted coat pattern and also a Sienna Maker Jacket from Closet Case (I’ve never sewn any Closet Case patterns, but I’m excited to try this pattern since I’m in the size range)!

I got some heavyweight mustard linen for a steal and I’d like to make them in to the narrow-leg pants that we’re currently testing- it will be tough to squeeze the pants out of the amount of fabric available so I’m thinking I might either need to cut the pocket bag fabric out of a different fabric or I might perhaps omit the pocket section entirely! The boilersuit I will test in a natural coloured drill, which is quite lightweight for drill (but which I’m hoping will lead to a very comfortable boiler)!

MyBodyModel 1

We’re currently testing quite a few different patterns for M&B, including some narrow leg pants (which is already out being tested by other makers), and a boilersuit pattern (check out Leila’s glorious red version here).

Since patterns are so rarely shown on a body that looks like mine (even if the pattern comes in my size), it’s so important for me to try and replicate what the pattern might look like on me (even though my sketching on my phone is terribly untidy and looks pretty shoddy). Ultimately, I’d like to do this more before I even buy a pattern, to save myself wasted effort (and money)!

Do you sketch before you sew? sketch before you buy? neither?

Sunday Plus-Size Pattern Roundup #9

The pattern roundup today features patterns which are available up to at least a 50″ bust or hip. Ultimately, I’d like to use the 60″ standard that’s been set by the knitting world, but at the moment that’d make for a pretty small list.

Neither this roundup nor any future roundup will include pattern companies who release patterns that are not available in plus-sizes (for example, if they have two pattern lines, one for straight sizes and one for plus-sizes and every pattern that they release isn’t available for both size ranges).

Number 1, Adrianna Dress

The Adrianna Dress from Friday Pattern Co.

This dress was launched yesterday and is available up to 4X (54″bust and 57″ hip) and it’s currently 20% off (discount code is listed at the top of the website)

Number 2, Fern Top

The Fern Top from Pattern Scout

Comes with optional C and D cup pattern pieces up to a 58″ hip

This top has been reviewed on the Curvy Sewing Collective here.

Number 3, Elliot Sweater

The Elliot Sweater from Helen’s Closet

Helen recently released updated sizing for the Elliot Sweater so it’s now available up to a 56″ bust and 58″ hip

Number 4, Montrose Top

The Montrose Top from Cashmerette

Cashmerette has extended the sizing on their Montrose Top, which is now available up to a 62″ bust and 62″ hip

Ashton top tropical toile

The Ashton top from Helen’s Closet has been out for a while now and I finally caved and purchased the pattern as a possible replacement for the Cashmerette Springfield Top, which fits great, but is a bit too fitted for my tastes (I want something boxier).

The Ashton is available up to a “size 30″ or a 58″ hip and 58” bust (drafted for a D-cup). Helen splits her cup sizes across her size range, with size 0-22 available with a B-cup bodice and size 12-30 available in the D-cup bodice. This is something I’ve never experienced before (since Cashmerette offers cup-sizes across her entire size range which doesn’t go as low as Helen’s).

Ashton Top fitting

Since the D cup option was the only one available in my size, I took it. I cut out my pattern with a size 24 at the shoulders and graded out to a size 26 at the hip. In the instructions, Helen provides lots of guidance on fitting and suggests not grading more than 1 size if you’d like to retain the boxiness. Unfortunately, I’ve got a lot of armhole gaping in this toile- perhaps I would have used a smaller cup-size bodice piece if that was available.

This isn’t a finished garment that I’d wear outside of the house, but I have been wearing it a lot indoors on warmer days. I might try sizing down to a size 20 bust and see if that will let me get away with no doing much editing to the pattern.

Ashton Top

Sunday Plus-Size Pattern Roundup #8

Number 1, The Lodo Dress

Lodo Dress from True Bias

If you’re looking for some Lodo inspiration then you should check out The Green Violet’s Grey dress

Number 2, The Fremantle Pants

Fremantle Pants from Elbe Textiles

Fremantle inspiration can be found from TheLadyWhoLunches, ChucklesPoncho, SewnInSeattle, SewedItMyself, and the Instagram hashtag in general

Number 3, The Wilder Gown

Wilder Gown from Friday Pattern Company

For Wilder inspiration, The Curvy Sewing Collective has a ‘Same Pattern, Different Bodies’ review of the pattern, which is how I found it!

For additional inspiration for the Wilder Gown, Kathryn of @cuttingthingsfine made this gorgeous ensemble which isn’t a Wilder but kind of could be!

Number 4, The Bonnie Woven Top

Bonnie Woven Tops from Style Arc

Back in 2009 (8 years before I started sewing), I was obsessed with this button-back Vogue blouse from Gertie. These days I’m more aware that the Vogue blouse isn’t for me, but I can absolutely wearing this casual top (even though there’s all those button-holes to make)!

Torrens Box Top adventures

We recently launched some bonus long-sleeve pieces to accompany the Torrens Box Top pattern from Muna and Broad. Since our summer hasn’t been particularly warm, I went a little sewing-crazy adding new sleeves of various kinds to my wardrobe!

Rather than post about all of them, I thought that a round-up post might be in order!

Black silk noil Torrens

I made this black silk noil long sleeve torrens using the ‘wide-sleeve’ option (which was intended for thick fabrics such as boiled wool) and it’s perfect for pushing my sleeves up my arms (in a casual but very comfortable way)! I especially love to pair the top with these Glebe Pants made of lovely olive coloured tencel from A + R Fabrics

Black silk noil Torrens 2
Cotton Crepe Torrens

This cotton crepe Torrens is my new favourite! I got this fabric as a remnant from Miss Maude Sewing NZ and it’s a really unique fabric (with a lovely crepey texture), which is lovely to wear. I love mustard and checks, so this is a real winner!

Cotton Crepe Torrens 2
McElroy Lawn Torrens 2

Of course, peak Torrens sleeve experimentation includes this top that will be shared on the Minerva maker blog in due course (I slashed and spread the sleeves and added a cuff)!

McElroy Lawn Torrens