Waikerie Dress View C

It’s still winter down here in New Zealand, but I braved the chilly weather to take some socially distanced photos!

This is View C of the Waikerie Dress from Muna and Broad with the collar added and long sleeves.

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Size details: Size F is my usual size in Muna and Broad Patterns (was previously called Size 1), but I cut my Waikerie Shirt to Size E and graded out to Size F at the hips because I could, and because it made sense with my narrow shoulders. But, the Waikerie Dress pieces I cut in a Size F. To make the pieces work, my back pleat is just a little fuller than the pattern was necessarily intended for.

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This dress has generous pockets and a great shape and I’ve really been enjoying wearing it as a duster outer over pants and tops! It works great as a versatile capsule wardrobe piece!

Fabric details: This is Charetreuse Linen from The Fabric Store. It’s no longer available online (they’ve replaced their original linen with Vintage Finish Linen or Heavyweight Linen options) but I found and purchased this in-store. I had some fabric left from 3 metres, but I cut on the open and with a lot of pattern tetris!

As a total aside, I don’t care for the look of the Vintage Finish Linen as it has a bit more drape, looks a bit less crisp and the colours are also less saturated. Overall it’s skewing away from the structured look you can still achieve with linen with a bit of heft and getting closer to something vintagey, which is not really of interest to me. They’re also no longer selling my favourite Marsala coloured linen- but I’ve found that the Rhubarb linen from A+R Fabrics in Aus is a pretty close match.

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I love working with Leila to put these patterns out- this dress is exactly the relaxed linen dress that I wanted to buy, but couldn’t find and got in to sewing in order to make, before discovering that nobody was making relaxed patterns in my size either!

Although sometimes our ideas for pattern releases start from pretty simple impulses, like ‘we need a bra-friendly cami that takes not much fabric!’, to ‘what about a bralette?’, we’re also trying to fill our own wardrobes (and hopefully yours) with great-fitting patterns which fill a gap!

The Banksia Bralette and Tank

I’m a little late to the party to talk about the new Banksia Bralette pattern, released by Leila and I through Muna and Broad, mostly because I do have reservations about sharing pictures on the internet of myself in a bralette (funny where we draw the line isn’t it?)!

While I was procrastinating on sharing pictures of myself in a bralette, we released the Banksia Swim Expansion which adds a tank option, which has an attached Banksia Braltte inside (a tank with built in support, there’s something I could take some pictures of)!

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The Banksia Bralette is designed to lightly support the breasts, but also to keep them separated (no more sweat from boobs that are touching). As someone who wears a lot of utterly un-supportive cotton crop tops which generally serve to keep my boobs covered but not supported- this pattern from Leila has been an absolute revelation.

The Bralette provides options to customise how much support you want, and Leila came up with a unique system which uses slings to give very light support to the breasts, while also separating them and stopping them from touching each other. If you have small enough breasts, or they’re wide-set enough that they don’t touch then you can easily omit the sling.
Other possible permutations for support include (in order of support), two layers of fashion fabric in the front for light support, two layers of fashion fabric in the front and back, powermesh and fashion fabric front piece, powermesh and fashion fabric front and back. I shared a picture this week on Instagram which shows just some of the Banksia Bralettes I made during the pattern testing phase! In the end, we released the pattern with sewing size (different to RTW) D cups and B cups and with pieces for narrow shoulders!

My Current Measurements: Upper Bust 43″ (109.5cm) Full Bust 48.5″ (123cm) Under Bust 40″ (101.5cm) shoulder width 16″ (40.5cm)

Size Details: I made many permutations of this bralette, but my favourite version, which will be where I base my future versions is a Size E, with the B Cup, narrow shoulder pieces. I like that this narrow-cup piece is a bit lower under the underarm and fits nicely on my narrow shoulders.

Support details: I’ve made multiple variations of the bralette, the most supportive (and binder like) being the powermesh front and back version (which reduces my Full Bust size by more than 3″ while providing a lot of lift), and the least supportive being single layer of fashion fabric front and back and powermesh slings (still very comfortable and perfect for sleeping in, if that’s your jam)!
I;ve got a few more bralettes (without the tank planned)- one with two layers of fashion fabric front and back and lightweight powermesh slings and another with powermesh front and double fashion-fabric back. For me, both of these support options will provide a decent amount of support and lift- they’ll be comfortable enough to sleep in but would also be appropriate to leave the house in.

Banksia Tank

I ordered my powermesh and fold-over elastic for the Banksia Bralette from Nellie Joans, which is a NZ based small-business but one which ships all over the world! Helen from Nelli Joans is an absolute star, and she’s always been so helpful with any of my requests. She also has a gorgeous selection of swimwear fabrics, including this ribbed black fabric which I’ve got put aside for a Banksia Bikini.

The Orange Tank: I don’t like this orange, but this version was my wearable toile of the longewear possibilities. The tank is made from a cotton/lycra and inside the support is provided by powermesh front and back and lightweight powermesh slings. The powermesh is very firm (and can be tricky to get on), but I love the support that’s provided here- I would happily wear the house with this tank and no bra. I’ve ordered some hefty bamboo/lycra in black for my next version- the neckline works great under my Torrens Box Tops and Waikerie Shirts (and, Waikerie Shirts is mostly what I’m wearing these days)!

Conclusion: I hate wearing bras at the best of time, and finding the right fit for underwire bras can be a challenge. The Banksia Bralette provides the comfort I sought in croptops (or going bra-free around the houses), and depending on the level of support, can also provide the lift that I sought in a bra. The unique power-mesh sling system that Leila devised keeps the breasts separated and sweat free, which is a bit gross to have to mention but a definite bonus if it’s something you’ve experienced!

Liberty print Waikerie Shirt

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I bought this liberty print cotton on a bit of a whim shopping in person at The Fabric Store here in Christchurch. It was pretty unusual for a liberty print, and a bit more large-scale/abstract than usual.

I bought this fabric intending to turn it in to a Waikerie Shirt (from Muna and Broad). This is View B of the Waikerie, and although I don’t look terrible pleased in these pictures, I actually like the shirt a lot.

I love the feel of the tana lawn, but really struggled with the ‘look’ of the shirt after making it- it felt a bit too formal for every day wear. Since most of my pants are pretty relaxed looking (and generally casual looking natural fibres), I felt like the texture of the shirt and the pants was not a great match. Over the next few weeks, I’m going to be exploring adding this shirt in to capsule wardrobes to see if I can find some new ways to wear the shirt!

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Size details: I made Size E graded to size F at the hips. My current measurements are Full Bust 48.5″ (123.19cm), Waist 41″ (104.14cm), Hip 54″ (137.16cm).

Fabric consumption: I purchased 2 metres of this fabric and cut on the open.

I couldn’t decide on a good fabric match for the hems of these, so I actually hand-stitched the mitered hem at the front and back of the shirt. I love the square hem inside the shirt, and the gentle dimpling of the hand stitched hem bring me a lot of pleasure when I see it. I think it was definitely worth the effort to finish the shirt without top-stitching the hem.

Mallee Jacket from Muna and Broad

The Mallee Jacket is the latest release from Leila and I through Muna and Broad. It’s designed specifically for boiled wool, but I used a viscose/wool blend boucle which doesn’t fray because it was tough to find boiled wool here in NZ back when I tested this pattern during our warmer months.

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Fabric Usage: The pattern pieces can be jigsawed in such a way that my size (Size F) can be made from 2.1metres of 150cm fabric. That’s especially good news because boiled wool, like all wool, can be pricey to buy.

I purchased this fabric locally back in February, and it’s no longer available. However, there are lots of great places in NZ and Australia to buy boiled wool from. I’ve included a list (with links) below, and anything in bold is a shop that I’ve shopped with myself in the past.

Drapers Fabric NZ and Australia
Miss Maude NZ
Ackroyd & Adams NZ
MaaiDesigns Australia
The Drapery Australia
Minervas Bower Australia
House of Cloth Australia
Fabric Deluxe Australia

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The actual design of the jacket has the pocket bags on the inside of the front, but I sewed mine on to the front as patch-pockets. There’s also an option to add buttons to the jacket (and it’s really easy to make button-holes on boiled wool since it doesn’t fray), but I chose to keep it simple and keep it as-is!

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I’ve been wearing this jacket a lot more than I thought I would- it conveniently goes with much of my wardrobe. I think I’ll make another version, but I haven’t found quite the right shade to inspire me (I’m not really crazy about a grey or black coat since it wouldn’t blend all that well with most of my me-mades), but I’m on the lookout!

Muna and Broad winter warmers

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I’ve been dreaming of a cosy winter ensemble, inspired by this top I spotted on Instagram combined with this dusky pink wool suiting blend which I scored 3m of for $15 last year! I also loved Leila’s pink pleated-front Glebe Pants (which she didn’t reach for and can now be seen on the ridiculous cool Lydia from @styleisstyle).

Having tested out the pleated front, flat waistband (View B) Glebe Pants in some black pinstripe wool suiting, I knew that I wanted at least a couple more pairs for the colder months. I love the fit on these, and I’ve got the construction down to a fine art. Because Leila included notches in the pattern to indicate the seam allowances, I can skip checking back on the instructions which certainly helps things go much quicker. I also skipped lining these pants, and I’m hoping I won’t need to go back to line the pants because of itchiness.

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The Top here is a hacked Torrens Box Top made from this open weave cotton blend from The Fabric Store. They do warn you about the very open weave on the fabric potentially leading to issues during sewing, so I felt warned but ultimately surprised by what a pain this shifty mess was! I’m not sure this hem will be my final, I’m considering adding on a thick bottom hem to really push those ‘oversized sweater’ vibes.

Because the cotton outer fabric was so shifty, I lined it in a white ‘linen’ fabric which I got from a second-hand store. I cut front and back top pieces from the linen, sewing it at the shoulder seams before sewing it around the neckline in lieu of a facing.

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Size details: I made a straight size A Torrens Box Top and Size 1 Glebe Pants, but since both patterns are in the process of having the sizing expanded and the size bands renamed, I sized based on my 55″ hips and did no grading.

Fabric usage: I generally squeeze my Glebe Pants from around 2 metres of 150cm wide fabric (and could use less by piecing my waistband together and using lining fabric for the pockets. There’s enough left of my original 3 metres for an extra project. I used around 2.5 metres for the Torrens Box top, and there’s still a piece left for another (small) project.