I’ve been planning my second Zadie Jumpsuit from Paper Theory since before I finished my testing toile version. This project has sat next to my sewing table for months- it was cut out and ready to sew, since the week that the fabric arrived by post. Since the weather has started to warm up, it was the perfect time to put together this Very Quick Project!
I sewed this pattern up exactly the same as last time, except I cut the ties very long. Very long. Maybe even most of the length of my 3 metres of fabric. This does mean that I can wrap them around myself twice before tying in a very generous bow. It also means that going to the bathroom is extra dangerous because there’s so much extra fabric to try and keep out of dangerous (by which I mean accidentally getting wet)! I absolutely prefer this length though and will do the same next time
The Fabric: When The Fabric Store had a sale recently on their lovely milled linen, I took the opportunity to buy some of their Marsala Linen. I’ve also made a StyleArc Adeline from the same fabric, so I knew that I’d enjoy the shade as a Jumpsuit! One of the benefits with linen from The Fabric Store is the matching bias binding because (for me), life is too short to make bias binding. Also, if they ever start offering pre-made 1 inch ties, then I’d buy that from them too.
Fabric Consumption: I bought 3 metres of Marsala Linen and although I had some leftovers, I would have required some serious pattern tetris to get away with less. I also purchased 5 metres of bias tape, which I used most of because I used it to finish the arm holes.
Sizing Details: I made a size 24 top and size 26 bottom. I know a lot of folks are saying ‘size down’ but I love the oversized, relaxed nature and I love the look of the garment with so much ease!
Recently the lovely Michelle from Matchpoint Fabric celebrated a birthday by having a sale and it was all the excuse I needed to order myself some of her silk noil fabric that I hadn’t been able to find closer to home! Although I’m pretty sure that I played a large part in her silk noil being currently sold out, I really would recommend keeping an eye out for when there’s some back in stock
When the fabric arrived (very quickly from Canada), I had a chance to feel my first silk noil! It was warm-to-the-touch, delightfully nubbled and the colour was a gorgeous dusty pink, which conveniently matches in quite well with most of my other me-mades.
I wanted to make this in to a cropped box top, which I could pair with high-waisted trousers, and after my success with the Eme Dress from StyleArc I decided that I would use the bodice piece and add a wide hem at the bottom. Of course, my ‘winging pattern hacking’ instead of drafting new pieces always gets quite out of hand so the insides definitely aren’t as gorgeous as the outsides, but I’ll be repeating this dress-as-a-top again soon!
Sketching the items out makes sure that I’m not making separates that don’t pair with anything else that I have, and also ensures that what I’m planning will look like I’m imagining it will, before I cut in to my fabric!
Stylearc’s Eme Dress is touted as the roundneck sister dress to their popular Adeline Dress (which I’ve made so many versions of)! Stylearc sent me a copy of the Eme multi-size printed pattern, but quite ironically I thought I’d sew a straight size 22 and I don’t think I’ll bother grading for my (inevitable) next version of this dress.
The illustration does a better job of highlighting the cocoon nature of the dress and also shows the 4 darts at the hem which give the dress the shaping. While I often find Stylearc instructions to be incredibly brief and also frequently confusing, I’m pretty sure these instructions were the strangest ones I’ve dealt with yet. It wasn’t a huge problem because there was nothing particularly unusual about the construction of the dress, but I’m pretty certain they never actually told me to sew the bodice to the skirt. Fortunately, I worked that necessary step out myself. I also managed to attach the sleeve facing (although I’m not 100% certain it was how they intended I should attach them).
Also, I skipped adding the inseam pockets.
This fabric is a kind of sandwashed tencel from Harald’s Warehouse, which I visited for the first time over the weekend. The store had some real treasures that aren’t so commonly found including quite a lot of tencel, wool gabardine, and So Much More. Although the pictures look a bit like a struggles with the tencel puckering, the tencel was in fact a dream to sew and what looks like puckering is actually just scrunching in various places.
Size Details: According to the StyleArc size chart my various bits range between their size 22 at the bust, through to size 26 at the hips. Since I had success with their Adeline dress in a straight size 22, no grading, I also made the Eme in size 22. This still gave the ‘sack’ look I was after, but avoided me needing to grade.
My verdict- stay tuned for more of these dresses. Maybe with some patch pockets added.