Grainger Coat, a plus-size quilted coat sewing pattern!

I’m so thrilled about the Grainger Coat, the latest pattern release from Leila and me through Muna and Broad! I’ve wanted to make myself a quilted coat for the longest time, but the popular patterns on the market weren’t available in my size.

Grainger Coat

While the Northern Hemisphere is thinking about heading in to cooler weather, things are starting to heat up here (or they were, but then there was a blast from Antarctica that brought snow to the nearby mountains, but now we’re back to warm weather). We’re heading in to summer but Christchurch summer can mean quite chilly weather, so I’m pleased to have this denim layer because:

A) denim is a neutral, so I hope I’ll be able to pair it with lots of my wardrobe

B) it’s a touch cooler than my boiled wool Mallee Jacket, which has been my go-to outer layer over the last few months.

I constructed this Grainger a little differently than the instructions called for because I was hoping to skip the binding on the outside. to keep the denim very neutral. With right-sides together, I sewed the lining pieces to the front of the body (all the way down the bottom hem), the neckline of the back body, the hem of the back body, and the cuffs of the sleeves. I then pressed and understitched the lining, before turning out and pressing again. I decided that I’d then sew the coat together as the instructions indicated and I’d bind the internal seams with bias tape.

Grainger Coat

Size Details: My current measurements are 47″ (119cm) Bust, 43″ (103cm) Waist and 55″ (140cm) Hip, which puts me in to the Size D bust size and Size F for hip size according to the Grainger Coat size range. Generally, I make the Muna and Broad sample size (Size F), which corresponds to my hip measurement but not my bust measurement.

One of the things that sewing has taught me (but which has been especially reinforced of late) is that I have quite narrow shoulders, and this often messes with the ‘look’ of garments.

Grainger Coat

Fabric Details: I used 12.5oz pre-quilted denim fabric from Miss Maude in NZ (currently sold out, but apparently she’ll be stocking it again in NZ Autumn), and I lined it with lightweight cotton chambray. I purchased 2.25 metres of this fabric well before the pattern was finished, and I could have got away with 1.7 metres EXCEPT that I then might not have had room to attempt quilt line matching on the two front pieces. I had actually purchased the red version of this Lady McElroy fabric for the lining, but decided just before cutting out that it would be better to have something closer to the denim in case anything peeked out!

Grainger Coat

My next version: There will definitely be a next version! I think I will make a Size D or Size E next- Size D would match with my bust measurement, and the oversized fit will mean that there’ll still be room for my hips. I’m planning a ‘summer quilt’ version where instead of batting, the middle layer is flannel, and I’m also planning to start piecing together scraps from my extensive scrap fabric collection… Perhaps I’ll start with a Semi-Breve Bag and branch out from there to improv-piecing a whole coat.

Mallee Jacket from Muna and Broad

The Mallee Jacket is the latest release from Leila and I through Muna and Broad. It’s designed specifically for boiled wool, but I used a viscose/wool blend boucle which doesn’t fray because it was tough to find boiled wool here in NZ back when I tested this pattern during our warmer months.

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Fabric Usage: The pattern pieces can be jigsawed in such a way that my size (Size F) can be made from 2.1metres of 150cm fabric. That’s especially good news because boiled wool, like all wool, can be pricey to buy.

I purchased this fabric locally back in February, and it’s no longer available. However, there are lots of great places in NZ and Australia to buy boiled wool from. I’ve included a list (with links) below, and anything in bold is a shop that I’ve shopped with myself in the past.

Drapers Fabric NZ and Australia
Miss Maude NZ
Ackroyd & Adams NZ
MaaiDesigns Australia
The Drapery Australia
Minervas Bower Australia
House of Cloth Australia
Fabric Deluxe Australia

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The actual design of the jacket has the pocket bags on the inside of the front, but I sewed mine on to the front as patch-pockets. There’s also an option to add buttons to the jacket (and it’s really easy to make button-holes on boiled wool since it doesn’t fray), but I chose to keep it simple and keep it as-is!

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I’ve been wearing this jacket a lot more than I thought I would- it conveniently goes with much of my wardrobe. I think I’ll make another version, but I haven’t found quite the right shade to inspire me (I’m not really crazy about a grey or black coat since it wouldn’t blend all that well with most of my me-mades), but I’m on the lookout!

Flynn Jacket, In The Folds

Flynn Jacket

The Flynn Jacket from In The Folds has a size range of 29 7⁄8″-51 5⁄8″ Bust, 33″-54 3⁄4″ Hip

I made a size “I”, which was going by my bust size. I was part of the original testing group for this jacket and I didn’t make any changes to the pattern apart from making the sleeves slightly shorter

Pattern Sizing:
The pattern is available in 10 sizes (A – J, which equates to Australian sizes 6-24)
In the folds sizes run from a 30-52″ (76-131cm) bust and 33-55″ (84-139cm) hip and they’re all drafted for a B cup and someone who is 5’7″ (170cm) tall

Although I’m technically sized out of the In The Folds size range by 1 inch, I didn’t make the largest available size of the jacket, and I think that I definitely didn’t need to ‘size-up’.

Flynn Jacket

I really like this pattern, although the pockets are a little low for me to reach in to comfortably, except when I’m sitting down! Because it would be a bit of a mission to change that, I’ll probably never change the pattern to do anything about that!

Probably my favourite part of this pattern is the box pleat at the back of the jacket, along with the style line (which is also where the facing sits), I think this makes the jacket look especially classy from the back.

The jacket calls for bottom-weight fabric, and I was at a bit of a loss so went with this denim, but I’d love a way to make the jacket in a more fancy-work-appropriate-fabric.
The sleeves were almost comically long on me, but that’s an easy enough fix for the next iteration of this jacket (which is definitely coming once I find the perfect fabric)!

Papercut Kochi

Papercut Kochi Silk

I wear this jacket all the time. Since it’s pure silk, it works for all weather- it’s cool when I’m warm and it’s warm when I’m cold. Another benefit of silk is that it can be casual or more fancy. I truly wear this at least once a week, if not more.

The pattern is the Kochi “Kimono”[sic] by Papercut Patterns.

Kochi Kimono in Sandwash Silk

This pattern isn’t made in my size and these days I wouldn’t buy it. Back in 2017 I was weak-willed (perhaps less stubborn), and there were so many lovely versions online that I was swayed to give it a go.

Give it a go I did. I think I’ve sewed 5 versions of this, but these days I wear only 2 of them. Since it wasn’t drafted with me in mind, it doesn’t fit like the versions online that I loved. For this silk version I added width through the back, added a huge neck ‘cuff’ and lengthened the sleeves so that they cover my tattoos.

Papercut Kochi Silk 2

I’ve sewn my final version of this ill-fitting pattern, and fed the paper pattern pieces into my worm farm. I’m on the hunt for a new go-to un-structured jacket if you have any recommendations.

Size Details: I sewed the XL which is drafted for a 46.5″ hip. I made significant pattern adjustments and am wearing it here with a 47″ bust and 54″ hip.

Sapporo Coat

Papercut Patterns Sapporo Coat Wool 3

This Sapporo Coat from Papercut Patterns is one of my biggest sewing regrets, that I’m resolved to turn into a sewing win!

I’m quite a way outside of the Papercut Patterns maximum hip size of 46.5″ (close to 10″ inches away), and because I loved the coat so much I got in touch with the company to ask if they thought my measurements would work with the coat pattern. They said yes, of course, since they were trying to sell me a coat pattern and off I went.

Papercut Patterns Sapporo Coat Wool

I found a lovely wool/cashmere blend on super sale, which I decided to cut into without making a muslin. While the fabric wasn’t expensive to me, knowing the value of it makes the failure of this coat sting all the more.

The coat is ultimately too small. Something that would now be clear to me since I have a few more projects under my belt. What I loved about the oversized fit on other people, doesn’t translate to me because I am using every single additional inch of positive ease to squeeze bottom end into the coat.

Papercut Patterns Sapporo Coat Wool 2

I finished this coat on the 3rd of December 2017 and I’ve worn it outside of the house maybe 4 or 5 times. I took these photos in the coat recently and I think maybe I’ve finally come round. It’s not the perfect version of the Sapporo coat that I was aiming for, because it doesn’t look like the same coat on me as it does on others. It is a comfortable coat though, the fabric is lovely & warm and it has excellent pockets. I’m definitely going to try and get it out of the house more than 5 times this coming winter.


Size Details: I sewed the XL size (drafted for a 46.5″ hip) and am pictured wearing it here with a 54″ hip.