I’ve had the Michelle Blouse from Schnittchen printed out for ages, but now that NZ is in lockdown and it’s not possible to print anything, I was finally spurred me on to testing it out (also because I hate buttonholes but love shirts)!
The Schnittchen plus-size patterns up to EU 56 or 53.54″ (136cm) bust and 55.91″ (142cm) hip. The shirt has a wide, swingy cut and a small collar, there is a yoke and a box-pleat in the center back.
It can be sewn up either sleeveless or with sleeves, but rather unusually the sleeveless version is exactly the same as the sleeved version but with bias tape around the armscye.
The pattern doesn’t list finished measurements, and although this arm hole looks very generous, there was no way the sleeve would fit my arm in there, so sleeveless version it is.
Size details: I cut out the straight size 56 (the largest side), and it’s too big across the shoulders, but there’s not enough cross over at the front for me to be certain that I wouldn’t flash a lot of people if worn outside of the house, and the shirt is much longer on me than it is on the model. I’d also need to do a very substantial full-bicep adjustment if I wanted to make the version with sleeves!
Would I make this pattern again?
Maybe.. The instructions were quite inscrutable and although the instruction sheet talked about instructions with pictures on the website, I wasn’t able to find any to use. I did quite a bit of head-scratching but I’m still not sure that I sewed things up in the correct order.
I love the aesthetic of the patterns, but I think it would likely be much quicker for me to start with a pattern that fits and adjust to recreate this look rather than spending the time to make the necessary adjustments at the shoulders, hips and the arms too.
Tara has studied fashion design, and so is trained in pattern production so I’ve always found her patterns and instructions to be very exacting- no confusing instructions, no inexplicably shoddy finishes, notches always match, and I think she also does a great job for plus size bodies too (which is obviously an important consideration.
Size details: My current measurements are around 47″ bust 44″ waist, 56″ hip and between and 18-19″ bicep. I cut a size 22 neckline/bust and graded out to a size 26 at the waist and hip. The sleeves I cut in size 28 (the largest size).
The pattern had small amount of tapering in below the armpit, and the adjustments to the size basically meant that I cut straight down from the size 22 armscye and where I was supposed to turn in, I cut straight down, meeting up with the size 26 line. Oversized tops can end up looking less-than-optimal if you have to grade out too much from the bust (because your grading out can cause a kind of trapeze effect around the hem).
I didn’t bother to brush my hair or tidy my lounge for these pictures- I figured that it was more important to take the photos than to wait for the perfect pictures! This is my first time making the pleated-front Glebe Pants that Leila and I released over at Muna and Broad!
I’m using these pants as a kind of test run for possible future versions- I like that the waistband isn’t gathered in the front here, which makes them look a little bit dressier (business in the front, comfort-party in the back)! These are made from wool and are fully lined, following Leila’s instructions on that front.
I did a lot of pressing with lots of steam to get the seams to sit as flat as possible- often I’m very lazy about such things, but I’m glad I took the time here. The flat-front adds pleats (but I might to the math on how much room I can afford to lose at the waist and see if I can make the flat front without any pleats too)!
Size details: I make the size 1 for my 54-56″ hips and make no alterations (except shortening the pattern so that these are slightly cropped)!
These are the new Sculthorpe Pants that Leila and I have released through Muna and Broad! We’ve been testing out a few different narrow leg pants options because we know that not everyone loves wide-leg pants!
Size details: I make a size 1 in the Muna and Broad sizing (which is meant for a 54″ hip) but I have between a 53-56″ depending on the time of day and how much sun is out, etc)
Fabric info:This viscose blend from The Fabric Store. It has a small amount of one-way stretch and a lovely nubbly texture (that I hope will hold up to lots of thigh rubbing). Fabric Usage: We suggest 2.5 metres for these pants, but I can generally use less by cutting on the open.
These pants have the same crotch curve as the Glebe Pants, so I get the same great fit. The pockets are just long enough to put your hand down in to, but doesn’t require me to bend over to reach in there.
I’ve made a few versions of these pants already, and I’ve got a couple more planned (including a black canvas pair that I’ll be making as part of my next Minerva Makers project)!