September 2019 – Broad in the seams

September 28, 2019September 28, 2019

Muna & Broad

Who is/what is Muna & Broad?
Leila (@Leila_sews) and Jess (@fat.bobbin.girl) have teamed up to release plus size sewing patterns with the sizing starting where other pattern companies often end their sizing.

Why release the Glebe Pants?
The Glebe Pants were drafted with a full tummy and full butt adjustment built in. From the experience the testers have had, it seems that having these adjustments built in at this size range leads to a pretty good fit “straight out of the packet”.

What’s next for Muna & Broad?
Other releases in the works are a tapered leg pant (to complement the wide leg Glebe Pants), an easy to wear boxy top and an oversized shirt. Sign up to the mailing list to keep up-to-date.

Who is Leila and how does she know how to make pants?
Hi! I’m Leila. I live in London, Ontario (Canada) but I’m from Sydney, Australia! I studied fashion at college with a focus on custom clothing production (patternmaking, grading, garment construction). I then worked in wardrobe for film and theatre and in a couture studio sewing beautiful bridal wear and high end garments before deciding that I wanted a different career. After that, I had a long break in my home garment sewing because after 10 hour days in the workroom, sewing felt like work!

Recently, I got my sewjo back. I was delighted to find an online sewing community and thoughtfully designed indie patterns! I’ve sewn some lovely garments and have appreciated the excellent patternmakers out there, however I found as a larger plus size person, many of the patterns I liked did not come in my size or required significant alterations to fit by body.

Once a body goes over a certain size, there are fundamental changes in its shape, especially in the tummy, hip, biceps, bust, and these require a totally different base pattern rather than simple grading. Lately, I’ve gone back to my production roots and have been patternmaking from scratch. It occurred to me that others in the community might like to try patterns that are made to fit them.

As it happens, on the other side of the world, Jess was thinking the same thing! We decided to release patterns where the sizing begins where others end!

Other releases in the works are a tapered leg pant (to complement the wide leg Glebe Pant), an easy to wear boxy top, and an oversized shirt. We hope you enjoy making these patterns and look forward to seeing your makes!

September 21, 2019November 19, 2019

Glebe Pants

Check out these cosy brown Glebe Pants from @fabric_scraps, and this gorgeous black pair from @Leila_sews herself!

@Leila_sews has designed a pant pattern which starts from a 54″ hip and will be available in 3 sizes (a 56.5″ hip and 59″ hip) . Keep an eye on the hashtags #GlebePant or #GlebePants to see some tester makes as they’re posted.

Although I have a 59″ hip when seated, I made the 54″ pants and very much like the dimensions and width of the leg. Suffice to say, the finished measurements will be important for choosing the ‘look’ you’d like.

The pants are made (as I understand it) with a built in full seat adjustment and a tummy adjustment, which means that you can skip a lot of common adjustments (or if you’re me, who never does any adjustments, it means that your pants might fit quite good)!

I sewed a size 1 and cutting on the open (so not folded over), I used 2.4 metres of 150cm wide linen. Leila cut her size 1 pants on the fold and with her 140cm(ish) wide fabric, she used 2.75m. We think that even with 115cm fabric, you’re probably going to be able to make these with 2.75m of fabric!

September 16, 2019September 16, 2019

Zadie Jumpsuit in Marsala Linen

I’ve been planning my second Zadie Jumpsuit from Paper Theory since before I finished my testing toile version. This project has sat next to my sewing table for months- it was cut out and ready to sew, since the week that the fabric arrived by post. Since the weather has started to warm up, it was the perfect time to put together this Very Quick Project!

I sewed this pattern up exactly the same as last time, except I cut the ties very long. Very long. Maybe even most of the length of my 3 metres of fabric. This does mean that I can wrap them around myself twice before tying in a very generous bow. It also means that going to the bathroom is extra dangerous because there’s so much extra fabric to try and keep out of dangerous (by which I mean accidentally getting wet)! I absolutely prefer this length though and will do the same next time

The Fabric: When The Fabric Store had a sale recently on their lovely milled linen, I took the opportunity to buy some of their Marsala Linen. I’ve also made a StyleArc Adeline from the same fabric, so I knew that I’d enjoy the shade as a Jumpsuit! One of the benefits with linen from The Fabric Store is the matching bias binding because (for me), life is too short to make bias binding. Also, if they ever start offering pre-made 1 inch ties, then I’d buy that from them too.

Fabric Consumption: I bought 3 metres of Marsala Linen and although I had some leftovers, I would have required some serious pattern tetris to get away with less. I also purchased 5 metres of bias tape, which I used most of because I used it to finish the arm holes.

Sizing Details: I made a size 24 top and size 26 bottom. I know a lot of folks are saying ‘size down’ but I love the oversized, relaxed nature and I love the look of the garment with so much ease!

What’s next for my Zadie Jumpsuit Pattern? Pattern hacks! I love this millenial pink wrap top hack, this floral version with elastic sleeves and this one from Emma’s Atalier. In terms of inspiring hacked wrap dress versions there’s this lovely check version, this gorgeous green spotted one, and this lovely summery black version from Tara at Paper Theory herself.

September 8, 2019September 8, 2019

10 Free Plus Size Sewing Patterns (part 25)

1. Mood Mallow Dress

Size: Up to a size 30 or 63″ hip

2. Fabrics Store Agustina Boxy Top Pattern

Size: Up to size 30 or 58″ hip

3. Mood Nyssa Dress

Size: Up to size 30 or 63″ hip

4. Sew Tina Givens- 4 free patterns

5. Fabrics Store Maria Paula Open Back Dress Pattern

Size: Up to size 30 or 58″ hip

6. Mood Daffodil Dress

Size: Up to size 30 or 63″ hip

7. Lekala Wedding Dress

8. Fabrics Store Phoebe Tank Pattern

9. Mood Ulmus Dress

Size: Up to size 30 or 63″ hip

10. Fabrics Store Avery Tiered Shirt Dress Pattern

Size: Up to size 30 or 58″ hip

September 6, 2019September 6, 2019

Silk Noil Eme top hack

Recently the lovely Michelle from Matchpoint Fabric celebrated a birthday by having a sale and it was all the excuse I needed to order myself some of her silk noil fabric that I hadn’t been able to find closer to home! Although I’m pretty sure that I played a large part in her silk noil being currently sold out, I really would recommend keeping an eye out for when there’s some back in stock

When the fabric arrived (very quickly from Canada), I had a chance to feel my first silk noil! It was warm-to-the-touch, delightfully nubbled and the colour was a gorgeous dusty pink, which conveniently matches in quite well with most of my other me-mades.

I wanted to make this in to a cropped box top, which I could pair with high-waisted trousers, and after my success with the Eme Dress from StyleArc I decided that I would use the bodice piece and add a wide hem at the bottom. Of course, my ‘winging pattern hacking’ instead of drafting new pieces always gets quite out of hand so the insides definitely aren’t as gorgeous as the outsides, but I’ll be repeating this dress-as-a-top again soon!

I’ve got my sketching with my My Body Model App custom croquis down to a fine art now. By using the Adobe Photoshop Sketch App on my phone, I add the screenshot I took of my custom croquis and have even had the idea of taking pictures of my fabric laying flat, and then using that as the fill for what I’m planning on making (not shown above, but this sketch will give you a good idea of what I mean).

Sketching the items out makes sure that I’m not making separates that don’t pair with anything else that I have, and also ensures that what I’m planning will look like I’m imagining it will, before I cut in to my fabric!