Sunday Plus-Size Pattern Roundup #22

It’s been a long time between posts in my Sunday Plus Size Sewing pattern series, which was a weekly occurrence earlier in the year, but which fell by the wayside!

What do I share?

In every post I share 4 patterns- some are old, some are new.

Generally, I’ll only include patterns that I like! It’s biased, but I’m not interested in rounding up fit and flare dresses for the masses.

In order to be included, the patterns will need to have either bust or hip measurements of over 50″, but preferably they’ll have both.

I try to only share pattern makers who release all their patterns in their entire size range- I don’t want to support companies who are further marginalising fat bodies, or treating us like an afterthought!

Check out the previous posts here.

Number 1, Ninja Top & Dress

Stokx Patterns are a relatively new, and even newer-to-me pattern company based in Berlin. The Ninja Top & Dress is available up to a 59″ bust and 60″ hip.

Not all of their patterns are available in this extended range, but the newer ones seem to be. Stokx Patterns come from Stokx’ RTW clothing shop in Berlin, so I presume they’ve been extensively fit-tested by real people!

Check out @weboughtamanor’s gorgeous purple version

Number 2, Grainger Coat

I’m on a cool-weather vibe with this roundup, so it seemed like a great time to include the latest pattern from Leila and me- the Grainger Coat, a quilted coat with 2 lengths.

Available up to a 71.5″ hip, we will grade the pattern up to your size at no extra cost if our patterns are too small for you.

Number 3, Arlo Track Jacket

The latest pattern from Friday Pattern Co, the Arlo Track Jacket is available up to a 60″ bust and 63″ hip.

Sold a unisex pattern, this comes in a variety of lengths!

Number 4, Pekka Jacket

The Pekka Jacket from France based Ready to Sew is available up to a 54″ bust and 59.5″ hip

I like how this pattern could fill the gap left because some other haori style patterns aren’t as size-inclusive as this one. But, the large format files are laid out in a way that requires you to trace your pattern pieces off- this is a bit of a bummer for those of us who love digital precisely because it allows us to skip the tracing!

Keep an eye out next Sunday for the next edition of my Sunday Sewing Pattern Roundup!

Grainger Coat, a plus-size quilted coat sewing pattern!

I’m so thrilled about the Grainger Coat, the latest pattern release from Leila and me through Muna and Broad! I’ve wanted to make myself a quilted coat for the longest time, but the popular patterns on the market weren’t available in my size.

Grainger Coat

While the Northern Hemisphere is thinking about heading in to cooler weather, things are starting to heat up here (or they were, but then there was a blast from Antarctica that brought snow to the nearby mountains, but now we’re back to warm weather). We’re heading in to summer but Christchurch summer can mean quite chilly weather, so I’m pleased to have this denim layer because:

A) denim is a neutral, so I hope I’ll be able to pair it with lots of my wardrobe

B) it’s a touch cooler than my boiled wool Mallee Jacket, which has been my go-to outer layer over the last few months.

I constructed this Grainger a little differently than the instructions called for because I was hoping to skip the binding on the outside. to keep the denim very neutral. With right-sides together, I sewed the lining pieces to the front of the body (all the way down the bottom hem), the neckline of the back body, the hem of the back body, and the cuffs of the sleeves. I then pressed and understitched the lining, before turning out and pressing again. I decided that I’d then sew the coat together as the instructions indicated and I’d bind the internal seams with bias tape.

Grainger Coat

Size Details: My current measurements are 47″ (119cm) Bust, 43″ (103cm) Waist and 55″ (140cm) Hip, which puts me in to the Size D bust size and Size F for hip size according to the Grainger Coat size range. Generally, I make the Muna and Broad sample size (Size F), which corresponds to my hip measurement but not my bust measurement.

One of the things that sewing has taught me (but which has been especially reinforced of late) is that I have quite narrow shoulders, and this often messes with the ‘look’ of garments.

Grainger Coat

Fabric Details: I used 12.5oz pre-quilted denim fabric from Miss Maude in NZ (currently sold out, but apparently she’ll be stocking it again in NZ Autumn), and I lined it with lightweight cotton chambray. I purchased 2.25 metres of this fabric well before the pattern was finished, and I could have got away with 1.7 metres EXCEPT that I then might not have had room to attempt quilt line matching on the two front pieces. I had actually purchased the red version of this Lady McElroy fabric for the lining, but decided just before cutting out that it would be better to have something closer to the denim in case anything peeked out!

Grainger Coat

My next version: There will definitely be a next version! I think I will make a Size D or Size E next- Size D would match with my bust measurement, and the oversized fit will mean that there’ll still be room for my hips. I’m planning a ‘summer quilt’ version where instead of batting, the middle layer is flannel, and I’m also planning to start piecing together scraps from my extensive scrap fabric collection… Perhaps I’ll start with a Semi-Breve Bag and branch out from there to improv-piecing a whole coat.