Marsala Merino Pembroke

Marsala Pembroke

I cut out this Cashmerette Pembroke and sewed it up over the course of a couple of hours last night, after many months of thinking how nice it would be to have a merino turtleneck in exactly this shade (a perfect match for my marsala linen Zadie Jumpsuit)

Marsala Pembroke

This Marsala Premium Merino from The Fabric Store has been burning a hole in my stash and was purchased in anticipation of being used on the winning pattern from my ‘perfect merino turtleneck throwdown‘ back in April. I got some great feedback from Jenny from Cashmerette about some changes to the pattern for my next version, but since that required printing out a new version of the pattern (I never trace), I just went ahead and made exactly the same version as when I toiled the pattern.

I sewed a pretty ‘straight-from-the-packet’ Cashmerette Pembroke I sewed a size 20 at the bust, grading out to a size 22 by the hips. Although there was a lot of wrinkling in my previous version, this merino is a lot heftier and I like the end product a lot more than I did my test version.

Marsala Pembroke

Sewing knit necklines is my nemisis, so sewing on a turtleneck is the perfect way to skip that headache. I can definitely see myself making at least another couple of these in a few different colours, especially since I think they’ll be perfect for layering under summery linen makes.

The perfect merino turtleneck pattern throwdown

I’ve decided to take advantage of this long-weekend to find the perfect pattern to use for my treasured marsala merino, which I’d like to make the winter-layering-turtleneck-of-my-dreams from!

Since we’re in lockdown here in NZ and it’s not possible to print any new patterns out, this throwdown has been limited to patterns that I already have printed. Spoiler Alert: after making them, I’m still not sure which one should be the winner (or if I should keep looking), so I’d love to hear your opinions.

The contenders are:

The Cashmerette Pembroke Dress & Tunic
Available up to a 58″ bust and 58″ hip and coming with choose-your-cup-size options.

The free Grainline Studio Hemlock Tee
Available up to a 56″ bust and 59″ hip in the plus-size pattern which runs from size 14-30

The Paper Theory LB Pullover
Available up to a 56″ bust and 57.5″ hip

My Details:
Bust: 47 inches
Waist: 44 inches
Hips: 56 inches Continue reading “The perfect merino turtleneck pattern throwdown”

Cashmerette Montrose: Picnic Edition

Montrose Picnic top

I’m amassing a collection of hacked Cashmerette Montrose Tops for workwear since I can now easily cut-out and sew one of these in about half a day. I’ve added neckline facings, which cuts down enormously on the time (I find bias binding to be a huge bummer).

This Cotton Herringbone from The Fabric Store was bought specifically because I hoped it would go well with my orange wool pants from Alice Alexander Co, which are proving to be hard to match with my wardrobe of muted colours.

Montrose Picnic sketch

Since I’ve done more imaginary sewing than actual sewing lately, I sketched out what I hoped I might be able to do with this picnic-table-esque cotton using my croquis from My Body Model App. Since I bought the fabric online I wasn’t 100% sure it would go well with the pants in real life but fortunately the colours worked fine together.

Montrose Picnic hand stitching

Having an inner facing has given me the perfect space to attach my Kylie & The Machine labels, and you can see that my handstitching isn’t getting tidier, but you’ll have to take me word for it that I’m getting a good rhythm going!

Amarante double gauze Montrose

Double Gauze Montrose 2

This gorgeous double gauze, ‘Stardust Amarante’, came from Miss Maude in New Zealand’s North Island and its usage in combination with the Montrose is entirely inspired by/plagiarised from Plum Kitchen who made this exact top in the mustard colourway (she actually has tonnes of inspiring Montrose tops (and other clothes), you should definitely check out her blog).

Double Gauze Montrose 1

I actually sewed this top up before I sewed up the cloud rayon A-line Montrose Hack, so this top has the lengthened arms (but not as lengthened as the rayon version) and front and back facings, but doesn’t have the extra width through the hips.

Double Gauze Montrose Label

I also took the opportunity to use this cute pink ‘Sewing is sexy‘ label from Kylie and the Machine, since red & pink is a great match!

Size Details: I use the C/D cup bodice in a size 20, grading out to size 22 at the hips. I’m also using the Full Bicep sleeve, with extended length.

Cloudy weather Cashmerette Montrose hack

Cloud Montrose 3

The latest Cashmerette Montrose in a wardrobe that already has a decent amount of Cashmerette Montrose tops: I’ve lengthened the sleeves, made the body more ‘A-line’, drafted facings for the front and back necklines and tested it all out in this cloud-print rayon from Drapers Fabrics.

Cloud Montrose

I used the Cashmerette Harrison sleeve as a template to increase the length of my Montrose to bracelet length. Because I usually cover my tattoos at work (depending on who I’ll be seeing), it’s nice to have the option of not wearing a sweater because my top is long enough!

Montrose Facings

The facing of the Peppermint Ruffle Sleeve Top ensured a tidy finish to the neckline (I’ve made this version and this version). I’ve found the facing is quicker to apply than bias binding as well as being neater and since it gets attached to the arm holes, the facing shouldn’t up and out of the neck hole!

Montrose Facings 2

Following Emily from In The Folds’ instructions on how to draft an all-in-facing, these facings were a cinch. I’ve always hated finishing my Montrose necklines with bias binding. It’s one of my least favourite activities and strikes me as being a bit of a ‘cop out’ finishing.

Montrose Cashmerette Clouds

Size details: In addition to lengthening the sleeves I redrew the sideseams so that they were straight but angled out (like an A-line dress). I use the C/D cup bodice in a size 20, grading out to size 22 at the hips, but my redrawn sideseams added some width at the hip. I’m also using the Full Bicep sleeve, with extended length.