I bought this liberty print cotton on a bit of a whim shopping in person at The Fabric Store here in Christchurch. It was pretty unusual for a liberty print, and a bit more large-scale/abstract than usual.
I bought this fabric intending to turn it in to a Waikerie Shirt (from Muna and Broad). This is View B of the Waikerie, and although I don’t look terrible pleased in these pictures, I actually like the shirt a lot.
I love the feel of the tana lawn, but really struggled with the ‘look’ of the shirt after making it- it felt a bit too formal for every day wear. Since most of my pants are pretty relaxed looking (and generally casual looking natural fibres), I felt like the texture of the shirt and the pants was not a great match. Over the next few weeks, I’m going to be exploring adding this shirt in to capsule wardrobes to see if I can find some new ways to wear the shirt!
Size details: I made Size E graded to size F at the hips. My current measurements are Full Bust 48.5″ (123.19cm), Waist 41″ (104.14cm), Hip 54″ (137.16cm).
Fabric consumption: I purchased 2 metres of this fabric and cut on the open.
I couldn’t decide on a good fabric match for the hems of these, so I actually hand-stitched the mitered hem at the front and back of the shirt. I love the square hem inside the shirt, and the gentle dimpling of the hand stitched hem bring me a lot of pleasure when I see it. I think it was definitely worth the effort to finish the shirt without top-stitching the hem.
The Mallee Jacket is the latest release from Leila and I through Muna and Broad. It’s designed specifically for boiled wool, but I used a viscose/wool blend boucle which doesn’t fray because it was tough to find boiled wool here in NZ back when I tested this pattern during our warmer months.
Fabric Usage: The pattern pieces can be jigsawed in such a way that my size (Size F) can be made from 2.1metres of 150cm fabric. That’s especially good news because boiled wool, like all wool, can be pricey to buy.
I purchased this fabric locally back in February, and it’s no longer available. However, there are lots of great places in NZ and Australia to buy boiled wool from. I’ve included a list (with links) below, and anything in bold is a shop that I’ve shopped with myself in the past.
The actual design of the jacket has the pocket bags on the inside of the front, but I sewed mine on to the front as patch-pockets. There’s also an option to add buttons to the jacket (and it’s really easy to make button-holes on boiled wool since it doesn’t fray), but I chose to keep it simple and keep it as-is!
I’ve been wearing this jacket a lot more than I thought I would- it conveniently goes with much of my wardrobe. I think I’ll make another version, but I haven’t found quite the right shade to inspire me (I’m not really crazy about a grey or black coat since it wouldn’t blend all that well with most of my me-mades), but I’m on the lookout!
Having tested out the pleated front, flat waistband (View B) Glebe Pants in some black pinstripe wool suiting, I knew that I wanted at least a couple more pairs for the colder months. I love the fit on these, and I’ve got the construction down to a fine art. Because Leila included notches in the pattern to indicate the seam allowances, I can skip checking back on the instructions which certainly helps things go much quicker. I also skipped lining these pants, and I’m hoping I won’t need to go back to line the pants because of itchiness.
The Top here is a hacked Torrens Box Top made from this open weave cotton blend from The Fabric Store. They do warn you about the very open weave on the fabric potentially leading to issues during sewing, so I felt warned but ultimately surprised by what a pain this shifty mess was! I’m not sure this hem will be my final, I’m considering adding on a thick bottom hem to really push those ‘oversized sweater’ vibes.
Because the cotton outer fabric was so shifty, I lined it in a white ‘linen’ fabric which I got from a second-hand store. I cut front and back top pieces from the linen, sewing it at the shoulder seams before sewing it around the neckline in lieu of a facing.
Size details: I made a straight size A Torrens Box Top and Size 1 Glebe Pants, but since both patterns are in the process of having the sizing expanded and the size bands renamed, I sized based on my 55″ hips and did no grading.
Fabric usage: I generally squeeze my Glebe Pants from around 2 metres of 150cm wide fabric (and could use less by piecing my waistband together and using lining fabric for the pockets. There’s enough left of my original 3 metres for an extra project. I used around 2.5 metres for the Torrens Box top, and there’s still a piece left for another (small) project.
Often it’s pretty easy to see the ‘hacking possibilities’ of a pattern, but I often get stuck actually going through with the hack because I’m worried about getting the pattern hack right, I’m not sure how much fabric I’ll need, and I’m just generally worried about making a mess of the whole thing- I hate wasting fabric.
The Waikerie Dress Expansion was the perfect way to solve those issues and give folks the instructions and pattern pieces they need to be able to make the Waikerie Shirt in to the Waikerie Dress. What I’ve made here is a modified View C, with long-sleeves and a collar. The hem has a modern-twist on the classic shirt hem and is higher at the front than at the back- I love the way it flows down.
Size Details: Since the pattern is an expansion, it does require some of the Waikerie Shirt pieces to complete it. The Muna and Broad sizing has recently increased (additional smaller sizes were added) and a new lettering system for the sizes. Where I was previously a Size 1, I now cut out a Size F. Right now I have a 48″ full bust and between a 52-56″ hip, depending on bloating.
Fabric Details: I pride myself on being able to jigsaw my pattern pieces pretty tight, so I managed to get this dress out of less than 3 metres of fabric (which is 148cm wide). This includes two decent size pocket pieces (could have been cut from a lining fabric), and the facing, which wraps around the neckline and down the front of the dress. I did wish that I’d picked up some of the matching linen bias binding to help with finishing the curved hem, but I didn’t think of it when I was in store.
I had a strangely difficult time finding buttons from my stash, both because I didn’t have enough of most of them, and because the colour was a difficult one to pair. I ended up using these cute wee wooden buttons, but I didn’t have enough for my cuffs (which remain button and buttonhole-free until I can find the right buttons to pair with the dress!
I’ve already cut out and mostly sewn View B with the mitered corners and a knee-high split, and I’m also thinking about a cosy cotton version for winter (or maybe a silk noil) if I can find the perfect fabric.
The latest pattern from Muna and Broad is the Waikerie Shirt pattern, and this here is the collarless variation (View C) with short sleeves.
I’ve avoided buttonholes for pretty much the whole time I’ve been sewing (all my pants have elastic), even though I love shirts, and finding shirts that fit both my bust and my hips was one of my biggest issues when shopping RTW!
Although I usually make Size 1 (our M&B sample size), this time I set my base size as Size ii and graded out at the hips to a Size 1. The split hem gives a little extra room, I’m definitely pleased that I graded out at the hip and am very happy with the final size and fit.
The idea of a collarless shirt intrigued me a lot and although a lot of the inspiration I found was from vintage 80s-90s sewing pattern illustrations, I’m pleased with how modern and versatile I think this view is!
The inverted box pleat is the standard back for Views B and C, and while I also lover the look of a box pleat, I love how the inverted pleat looks so elevated here. Of course, I’m already planning more shirts (including a long shirt dress version and a cropped version)!