Grainline Studios has recently released their free Hemlock Tee pattern in their new extended size range! I’ve loved the style of the top, and now it’s available in my size! You can get the pattern for free by subscribing to the Grainline email newsletter (which you can do here).
Based on Grainline’s new size chart (below) I made a size 24 (I’m 47″bust and around 54″ hip), and I was pleasantly surprised to find that the size on the arms was quite generous, and meant that I could skip doing a full bicep adjustment!
I cut out the 3/4 sleeve length and the length of the body is halfway between the cropped & mid-length body in this gingernut viscose spandex from Fabric Drop, which is based out of Dunedin in New Zealand. With some pattern tetris, I was able to cut this out from about 1.5 metres (and I’ve got a decent piece leftover too). I usually cut all my patterns on the open (flipping the pattern piece over and tracing a mirror image), and then cut sleeves (and other things I need to cut 2 of) one at a time. Doing that here certainly made it a pretty economical pattern!
The 3/4 length sleeves ended up being almost bracelet length for me, because I have quite narrow shoulders and my measurements put me in between size 20 and 22 but I made a straight size 24. I’m happy with the length, but would do some measuring of the full length arm piece before sewing that as I suspect it would be quite long.
I realised after the fact that I had inadvertently sewed up something almost identical to the Grainline sample on the right!
I’ve been saving this gorgeous rayon from Drapers Fabric for the perfect project. I’m happy to say that I’m really pleased with the usage here, and I think I’ll have enough leftover for a summer shell top (maybe an Ashton from Helen’s Closet?)
We’re currently testing the Torrens Box Top for Muna & Broad. The pattern is out with our lovely testers and will be released in November! As always, sign up to the email list if you’d like to be kept up to date on the latest.
Size Details: I made the smallest size in this pattern. The neckline is drafted so that it doesn’t show bra-straps (even on my very narrow shoulders). Leila drafted the shoulder seams with some wizard tricks- this shirt doesn’t constantly shift back at the neckline so that it chokes you at numerous points during the day! The only change I made was to crop the shirt by turning the bottom up with two generous folds. I love a thick bottom hem, so that was perfect!
I made this sweater from my Cashmerette Montrose Top pattern and hacked the pattern quite a bit but totally unprofessionally to get to this long-sleeve box!
I didn’t want to buy a new pattern and I wanted something I already knew fit, and since I’m obsessed with the Montrose Full Bicep sleeve, I very haphazardly used the top half of that and joined it on to the bottom half of the Harrison Shirt Sleeve (sans cuff piece). The sleeve is in two parts- mostly because I think it looks cool and also for pattern tetris and cutting ease.
Size details: I sewed the C/D cup bodice in a size 20, and since I knew I wanted a very boxy look and split side seams, I cut straight down from the underarm seam on both the front and back bodice pieces. When sewing up the top, I sewed only a seam rippers length down from the underarm seam (very scientific).
Since I cut the top part of the front bodice in two pieces, I decided to add some decorative top stitching along the seams there, and also on the arm seams. I left the bottom hem unfinished, but I think I’ll go back and add some similar top stitching to a largeish hem down there too! I did a bit of a messy job with my bias binding neckline, I thought that this ‘Perfectly Imperfect’ label from Kylie and the Machine was an excellent match!
I started this Cashmerette Harrison Shirt, my first shirt, with the intention of making a ‘wearable toile’ but have settled for a toile that included plenty of ‘firsts’ for me!
Usually when making Cashmerette Patterns, I’m able to pick my cup size, select my bust measurement and then grade out a size or two where the curve starts for the hips on the pattern pieces. But since the Harrison has double princess seams, I only graded out on the outside seam of the outer pieces of the back and the front, and it just wasn’t enough extra fabric to encourage my shirt over my hips.
Size details: I made a size 20 in the bust and graded out to a 22 on the two side pieces of the back and front. This didn’t give me enough additional fabric, and next time I’d grade out to a 24. I also used the very handy Full Bicep Sleeve piece for a great fit in the arms! My current measurements are 47″B 43″W 56″H
I made this top in some slightly shiny brick coloured cotton fabric which I got for the grand sum of $2 per metre from The Fabric Store. I wore this top a lot last summer, and devised an ingenious method for wrapping the ties around my bra strap before tying, if I wanted to make sure that it wasn’t showing.
Sizing Details: The instructions step you through drafting the top for your own measurements, so there’s no sizing to speak of here. I tried to ensure that the back ties were quite wide, so that they covered more of my back as they met, but that’s entirely up to you as you are drafting.
I think this pattern is perfect for beginner plus size sewists!