I cut out this Cashmerette Pembroke and sewed it up over the course of a couple of hours last night, after many months of thinking how nice it would be to have a merino turtleneck in exactly this shade (a perfect match for my marsala linen Zadie Jumpsuit)
This Marsala Premium Merino from The Fabric Store has been burning a hole in my stash and was purchased in anticipation of being used on the winning pattern from my ‘perfect merino turtleneck throwdown‘ back in April. I got some great feedback from Jenny from Cashmerette about some changes to the pattern for my next version, but since that required printing out a new version of the pattern (I never trace), I just went ahead and made exactly the same version as when I toiled the pattern.
I sewed a pretty ‘straight-from-the-packet’ Cashmerette Pembroke I sewed a size 20 at the bust, grading out to a size 22 by the hips. Although there was a lot of wrinkling in my previous version, this merino is a lot heftier and I like the end product a lot more than I did my test version.
Sewing knit necklines is my nemisis, so sewing on a turtleneck is the perfect way to skip that headache. I can definitely see myself making at least another couple of these in a few different colours, especially since I think they’ll be perfect for layering under summery linen makes.
I’ve decided to take advantage of this long-weekend to find the perfect pattern to use for my treasured marsala merino, which I’d like to make the winter-layering-turtleneck-of-my-dreams from!
Since we’re in lockdown here in NZ and it’s not possible to print any new patterns out, this throwdown has been limited to patterns that I already have printed. Spoiler Alert: after making them, I’m still not sure which one should be the winner (or if I should keep looking), so I’d love to hear your opinions.
I made a size “I”, which was going by my bust size. I was part of the original testing group for this jacket and I didn’t make any changes to the pattern apart from making the sleeves slightly shorter
Pattern Sizing: The pattern is available in 10 sizes (A – J, which equates to Australian sizes 6-24) In the folds sizes run from a 30-52″ (76-131cm) bust and 33-55″ (84-139cm) hip and they’re all drafted for a B cup and someone who is 5’7″ (170cm) tall
Although I’m technically sized out of the In The Folds size range by 1 inch, I didn’t make the largest available size of the jacket, and I think that I definitely didn’t need to ‘size-up’.
I really like this pattern, although the pockets are a little low for me to reach in to comfortably, except when I’m sitting down! Because it would be a bit of a mission to change that, I’ll probably never change the pattern to do anything about that!
Probably my favourite part of this pattern is the box pleat at the back of the jacket, along with the style line (which is also where the facing sits), I think this makes the jacket look especially classy from the back.
The jacket calls for bottom-weight fabric, and I was at a bit of a loss so went with this denim, but I’d love a way to make the jacket in a more fancy-work-appropriate-fabric. The sleeves were almost comically long on me, but that’s an easy enough fix for the next iteration of this jacket (which is definitely coming once I find the perfect fabric)!
Tara has studied fashion design, and so is trained in pattern production so I’ve always found her patterns and instructions to be very exacting- no confusing instructions, no inexplicably shoddy finishes, notches always match, and I think she also does a great job for plus size bodies too (which is obviously an important consideration.
Size details: My current measurements are around 47″ bust 44″ waist, 56″ hip and between and 18-19″ bicep. I cut a size 22 neckline/bust and graded out to a size 26 at the waist and hip. The sleeves I cut in size 28 (the largest size).
The pattern had small amount of tapering in below the armpit, and the adjustments to the size basically meant that I cut straight down from the size 22 armscye and where I was supposed to turn in, I cut straight down, meeting up with the size 26 line. Oversized tops can end up looking less-than-optimal if you have to grade out too much from the bust (because your grading out can cause a kind of trapeze effect around the hem).