Sunday Plus-Size Pattern Roundup #12

This week the Sunday plus-size sewing pattern has a little ‘weekend theme’ with patterns that might be great for a summer weekend! I was thinking about a trip to the beach with a me-made swimsuit & maxi-dress, maybe gardening in some overalls, and drinking a tasty beverage (and eating little cubes of cheese) in a jumpsuit!

All of these patterns are available at least to a 50″ bust or hip (but preferably both) and these roundups selfish contain only patterns that I would like to make myself!

Number 1, Laminaria Swimsuit

The Laminaria Swimsuit from Tuesday Stitches

Available up to a size 24 or 55″ hip

Check out some great photos from the pattern testers here or this great review from Wis for inspo.

Number 2, Wide-Strap Maxi Dress

Wide-Strap Maxi Dress from Peppermint Sewing School by Elbe Textiles (this is a free pattern)!

For inspiration check out; Christmas red linen from Katie_Parrott, green linen from TheLadyWhoLunches, white and black scribbles from MaggieWix,

Number 3, Olive Jumpsuit

The Olive Jumper from Untitled Thoughts

Available up to a 58″ hip

Number 4, Thelma Jumpsuit

The Thelma Jumpsuit from Merchant & Mills

Available up to 57.5″ hip and was released recently as part of the Merchant & Mills extended size range.

Looking for boilersuit inspiration?

Sunday Plus-Size Pattern Roundup #11

This roundup features a jacket from Schnittchen patterns which is available

Number 1, Thayer Jacket

Thayer Jacket from Grainline Studios

One of the 2 first patterns to be released from Grainline as part of their extended sizing.

I love the pink cord sample but other inspiring makes include Jen’s ‘Loon Watch’ Thayer, this other pink cord version and the #grainlinethayer and #thayerjacket hashtags

Number 2, Somerfield Coat

The Somerfield Coat from Elbe Textiles

Check out the Somerfield coat from Katie of Sew Altered Style, and the hashtag on instagram!

Number 3, Nathalie Bodysuit

The Nathalie Bodysuit from Untitled Thoughts

Number 4, Ashton Top

Plus the Amy Parka

This jacket is available up to a 55″ hip (which isn’t especially size-inclusive) but more than that, Schittchen patterns continues to release patterns which aren’t available in their full size range. I’ve included it here as an additional pattern because I think it could be a worthwhile plus-size rain jacket (if you happen to fit in the size range).

Sunday Plus-Size Pattern Roundup #10

Number 1, Kabuki Tee

Kabuki Tee from Paper Theory

Check out the hashtag #KabukiTee on Instagram for some infpiration!

Number 2, Factory Dress

The Factory Dress from Merchant & Mills

Merchant & Mills put a call out late last year for a model for their extended size range, their new sizes go up to size UK28 (or 57.5″ hip)

Number 3, Collins Top

Collins Top from In The Folds

What’s slowed me down from making this top (which comes with sleeved and sleeveless options) is the knowledge that I’d probably need to do a FBA.

Check out this amazing version from @meanwhilemaker, this Collins from Applefranca, this dramatic raw silk Collins from Tasha and the #collinstop hashtag on insta.

Number 4, Torrens Box Top

Plus-size Kabuki Tee from Paper Theory

I’ve had the extended sizes of the Kabuki Tee from Paper Theory printed out for ages now, and it’s been in the back of my mind that I ought to find some lovely linen for this for ages now. A couple of weeks ago I tried to find some examples of plus-size bodies in the pattern, but found so few of them (which was very surprising since it was such a popular pattern when it first came out).

Kabuki Tee

I rarely toile but have done so this time around (which is why I didn’t bother to finish the neckline). I’ve never sewn a right angle sleeve before, so I read the instructions before starting (very rare) and also watched this video that Tara put together on how she does it.

I haven’t pressed anything for these pictures (sorry), but the instructions were good and the sleeve will sit perfectly once I iron it out.

The reason I chose to toile this is that so many folks got in touch with me to tell me to be careful with the pattern because they’d ended up with something very oversized that they weren’t very happy with.

Kabuki Tee

I chose my size based on my bust measurement and didn’t grade out at the hips (which, as you can see was a mistake)! I made a straight size 22 for my 47″ bust and 54-ish” hips (I was relying on positive ease in the hips for the size 22). I don’t mind oversized but thought it was best to play it safe based on the advice from the hive mind.

I’ve popped some pictures which show the sample garments from the Paper Theory socials- the area between the neckline and where the sleeve portion begins is much wider on my size 22 than it is on the samples in white.

Kabuki Tee

Unfortunately, I have pretty narrow shoulders, so where the sleeve starts is practically already at the edge of my shoulders (as opposed to sitting quite close to the neckline as it does in the samples). I’m not sure if this is an issue that’s unique to me or if the extended sizes drafting presumed I got a bit broader in the shoulder or perhaps it was trying to make the top in similar proportions).

What do you think, is it worth moving the sleeve in, lengthening the sleeves and grading out at the hips before giving it another go?

MyBodyModel for plus-size sketching

Recently I’ve made a lot more wardrobe orphans than usual (light sky-ish blue pants that don’t go with any of my tops being a prime example) and I’ve also not been sketching my makes as much. I’d like to start doing that more, both before I cut-and-sew but also before I purchase fabric. Hopefully this will cut down on the amount of fabric in my stash that I like, but can’t really see myself wearing (although I suppose I’ll have to get rid of some of my current ‘unwearable fabric’ first)!

I used my MyBodyModel croquis here and until the 3rd of February you can get 15% off custom croquis with the code SEWSOUTHERN.

I don’t get anything from telling you that, but Erica has offered to donate 15% of the sales from folks using the discount code towards the ticket sponsorship scheme for the Christchurch frocktails event I’m helping to organise called the Sew Southern Makers Night Out

I used my croquis to sketch out some of my upcoming sewing plans, and even though my sketching is terrible (I use the adobe sketch app on my phone), I still find it incredibly helpful!

MyBodyModel 3

Two of my upcoming garments are Elbe Cornell shirts (and a Cornell dress hack inspired by a currently unphotographed make from Naomi.Joy.Creates)! I already have the bright pink cotton, but I’d love a black silk noil shirt version too!

MyBodyModel 2

I’m planning a couple of jackets- on the left is a cropped version of a forthcoming M&B quilted coat pattern and also a Sienna Maker Jacket from Closet Case (I’ve never sewn any Closet Case patterns, but I’m excited to try this pattern since I’m in the size range)!

I got some heavyweight mustard linen for a steal and I’d like to make them in to the narrow-leg pants that we’re currently testing- it will be tough to squeeze the pants out of the amount of fabric available so I’m thinking I might either need to cut the pocket bag fabric out of a different fabric or I might perhaps omit the pocket section entirely! The boilersuit I will test in a natural coloured drill, which is quite lightweight for drill (but which I’m hoping will lead to a very comfortable boiler)!

MyBodyModel 1

We’re currently testing quite a few different patterns for M&B, including some narrow leg pants (which is already out being tested by other makers), and a boilersuit pattern (check out Leila’s glorious red version here).

Since patterns are so rarely shown on a body that looks like mine (even if the pattern comes in my size), it’s so important for me to try and replicate what the pattern might look like on me (even though my sketching on my phone is terribly untidy and looks pretty shoddy). Ultimately, I’d like to do this more before I even buy a pattern, to save myself wasted effort (and money)!

Do you sketch before you sew? sketch before you buy? neither?