Sunday Plus-Size Pattern Roundup #22

It’s been a long time between posts in my Sunday Plus Size Sewing pattern series, which was a weekly occurrence earlier in the year, but which fell by the wayside!

What do I share?

In every post I share 4 patterns- some are old, some are new.

Generally, I’ll only include patterns that I like! It’s biased, but I’m not interested in rounding up fit and flare dresses for the masses.

In order to be included, the patterns will need to have either bust or hip measurements of over 50″, but preferably they’ll have both.

I try to only share pattern makers who release all their patterns in their entire size range- I don’t want to support companies who are further marginalising fat bodies, or treating us like an afterthought!

Check out the previous posts here.

Number 1, Ninja Top & Dress

Stokx Patterns are a relatively new, and even newer-to-me pattern company based in Berlin. The Ninja Top & Dress is available up to a 59″ bust and 60″ hip.

Not all of their patterns are available in this extended range, but the newer ones seem to be. Stokx Patterns come from Stokx’ RTW clothing shop in Berlin, so I presume they’ve been extensively fit-tested by real people!

Check out @weboughtamanor’s gorgeous purple version

Number 2, Grainger Coat

I’m on a cool-weather vibe with this roundup, so it seemed like a great time to include the latest pattern from Leila and me- the Grainger Coat, a quilted coat with 2 lengths.

Available up to a 71.5″ hip, we will grade the pattern up to your size at no extra cost if our patterns are too small for you.

Number 3, Arlo Track Jacket

The latest pattern from Friday Pattern Co, the Arlo Track Jacket is available up to a 60″ bust and 63″ hip.

Sold a unisex pattern, this comes in a variety of lengths!

Number 4, Pekka Jacket

The Pekka Jacket from France based Ready to Sew is available up to a 54″ bust and 59.5″ hip

I like how this pattern could fill the gap left because some other haori style patterns aren’t as size-inclusive as this one. But, the large format files are laid out in a way that requires you to trace your pattern pieces off- this is a bit of a bummer for those of us who love digital precisely because it allows us to skip the tracing!

Keep an eye out next Sunday for the next edition of my Sunday Sewing Pattern Roundup!

Grainger Coat, a plus-size quilted coat sewing pattern!

I’m so thrilled about the Grainger Coat, the latest pattern release from Leila and me through Muna and Broad! I’ve wanted to make myself a quilted coat for the longest time, but the popular patterns on the market weren’t available in my size.

Grainger Coat

While the Northern Hemisphere is thinking about heading in to cooler weather, things are starting to heat up here (or they were, but then there was a blast from Antarctica that brought snow to the nearby mountains, but now we’re back to warm weather). We’re heading in to summer but Christchurch summer can mean quite chilly weather, so I’m pleased to have this denim layer because:

A) denim is a neutral, so I hope I’ll be able to pair it with lots of my wardrobe

B) it’s a touch cooler than my boiled wool Mallee Jacket, which has been my go-to outer layer over the last few months.

I constructed this Grainger a little differently than the instructions called for because I was hoping to skip the binding on the outside. to keep the denim very neutral. With right-sides together, I sewed the lining pieces to the front of the body (all the way down the bottom hem), the neckline of the back body, the hem of the back body, and the cuffs of the sleeves. I then pressed and understitched the lining, before turning out and pressing again. I decided that I’d then sew the coat together as the instructions indicated and I’d bind the internal seams with bias tape.

Grainger Coat

Size Details: My current measurements are 47″ (119cm) Bust, 43″ (103cm) Waist and 55″ (140cm) Hip, which puts me in to the Size D bust size and Size F for hip size according to the Grainger Coat size range. Generally, I make the Muna and Broad sample size (Size F), which corresponds to my hip measurement but not my bust measurement.

One of the things that sewing has taught me (but which has been especially reinforced of late) is that I have quite narrow shoulders, and this often messes with the ‘look’ of garments.

Grainger Coat

Fabric Details: I used 12.5oz pre-quilted denim fabric from Miss Maude in NZ (currently sold out, but apparently she’ll be stocking it again in NZ Autumn), and I lined it with lightweight cotton chambray. I purchased 2.25 metres of this fabric well before the pattern was finished, and I could have got away with 1.7 metres EXCEPT that I then might not have had room to attempt quilt line matching on the two front pieces. I had actually purchased the red version of this Lady McElroy fabric for the lining, but decided just before cutting out that it would be better to have something closer to the denim in case anything peeked out!

Grainger Coat

My next version: There will definitely be a next version! I think I will make a Size D or Size E next- Size D would match with my bust measurement, and the oversized fit will mean that there’ll still be room for my hips. I’m planning a ‘summer quilt’ version where instead of batting, the middle layer is flannel, and I’m also planning to start piecing together scraps from my extensive scrap fabric collection… Perhaps I’ll start with a Semi-Breve Bag and branch out from there to improv-piecing a whole coat.

The new Torrens Box Top

You’d think that after more than a year of trying to photograph my makes, I’d be a bit better at posing or doing a good face- fear not! I’m here to prove that I’m just as un-photogenic as ever before! It probably doesn’t help that I’m always trying to have a conversation with my photographer- I popped out with a sewing friend and took some pictures of this re-drafted Torrens Box Top before heading out for a coffee!

Here I’m wearing my current favourite ‘leaving the house outfit’, my plum Willandra Pants (blogged here) and new viscose Torrens Box Top!

Torrens Box Top Viscose

The Torrens Box Top got a thorough redoing when we updated the sizes recently! The neckline has been tweaked the most and the top is also a little longer. The shirt now sits perfectly in our block now and folks at the upper sizes should experience a little extra room around the hips! Even with my narrow shoulders, the neckline is still bra-strap (or Banksia Bralette strap) friendly for me, which I’m very pleased about!

Size Details: All my previous Torrens Box Tops are made in the original Size 1 sample size, but I took the opportunity to size down in line with my bust measurements, instead of my hip measurements. I made a straight Size E (which would have been a Size i in the old size chart), and my bust is 47″ and the widest part of my hip/belly area is fluctuating between 52-56″ depending on the day.

Fabric usage: I can’t say exactly how much fabric I used for this as I cut it directly from the roll, but I generally use a little over 2 metres for my sleeved Torrens Box Tops! You could use a little bit less by making the short sleeve version, and cutting your neck facings from lining fabric could save a little extra fabric if you’re caught short.

Back Viscose Torrens Box Top

Also, these shoes are my latest love! They’re from Sevilla Smith, a business that I’ve admired from the longest time. I ordered two pairs of shoes, this being the largest (and the right choice for my feet). I find that I have a hard time finding shoes to fit when shopping in store, and because the back of these shoes doesn’t contain anything to stiffen them up, they don’t rub when wearing!

Side Viscose Torrens Box Top

Online Fabric Shops in New Zealand

Here’s a little roundup of NZ fabric stores where you can shop online to buy fabrics appropriate for garment sewing! I’m always trying to buy as locally as possible, and shipping from overseas can be agonising (both in terms of wait time and cost), so shopping close to home (and in your own currency) is a great alternative.

I’ve made my favourite shops bold! These are shops that I’ve shopped with and would wholeheartedly recommend!

Updated: 18/10/2020

Ackroyd & Adams (based in Auckland)

They have a selection of different fabrics including merino and cotton knits, denim, cottons and linens

AS Fabrics (based in NZ)

They have a small selection of fabrics (lot of polyester) which are leftovers from Annah Stretton’s factory. They actually charge more for postage the more fabric you order.

Backstreet Bargains (based in Hamilton)

They have a variety of fabrics at very decent prices. They have a system on their website for requesting samples, which you pay for, but I’ve also had luck getting free samples by emailing the store (either way, the samples are very small)

Bolt of Cloth (based in NZ)

They have a small selection of ‘craft, quilting & dressmaking fabrics’, i.e quilting cottons that you can conceivably make stiff garments with.

Charming Juno Fabrics (based in NZ)

They have a small selection of garment appropriate fabrics including Robert Kaufman chambray and velveteen, a few printed knit fabrics.

Drapers Fabrics (based in Auckland)

They have a decent selection of what I would describe as trend forward. Samples are available for $1 and shipping is free in NZ for orders over $75

Fabric Fixation (based in NZ)

They have a small selection of garment fabrics, and a lot of quilting fabrics. Their garment fabrics include cotton blend knit, corduroy, fleece and canvas

The Fabric Store (based in Auckland)

They have a selection of consistent colours across their linen, heavyweight linen and merino fabric offerings. In addition to selling designer short ends, they also stock a lot of silk, cotton and corduroy fabrics from Liberty Fabrics in the UK.

Florence & Mary (based in NZ)

They have NZ’s largest selection of Liberty Tana Lawn fabrics (15 pages of the stuff, to be precise)

For Fabrics Sake (based in NZ)

They have a large selection of patterned and plain knit fabrics, organic knit fabrics and a very limited selection of woven, non-stretch fabrics.

Hawes & Freer (based in Auckland)

They have a selection of what you could describe as high-end fabrics and bridal fabrics. They also have a lovely selection of sustainable buttons and a wide variety of interfacings, shoulder pads and lining fabrics. I’ve had success emailing them to ask for samples.

Harmless Solutions (based in NZ)

They aren’t a fabric store, but they do sell a variety of undyed cotton, hemp and bamboo fabrics.

Ikes Geoff’s Emporium (based in Auckland)

They have a limited selection of garment fabrics available online, along with sewing and other craft supplies.

Jones and Taylor (based in Taranaki)

They have a selection of Merchant and Mills fabric, and notions from them too. Clicking on ‘Fabric’ won’t show you even half of the fabric which is actually listed. They do have a tidy selection of sustainable buttons.

Levana Fabrics (based in NZ)

They have a large selection of knit fabrics, including cotton, modal and merino knit fabrics.

Merino Collective (based in NZ)

A new-comer which is making merino fabric (which is made in Australia) available below wholesale quantities. They have merino fabrics and organic cotton available right now

McLean & Co (based in Oamaru)

Not strictly a fabric store, McLean & Co produce hand-loomed fabric from NZ Wool and you can purchase by the metre.

Miss Maude NZ (based in Greytown)

They have a gorgeous selection of really well curated selection of lovely fabrics, which skew to the pricier end of the scale, but are all great quality. They also have a great selection of notions (including bias binding, fancy elastics, etc).

Moreland Fabrics (based in Hamilton)

They have a large selection of well-priced cottons, corduroys and denims and offer a free sample service via post and free shipping for orders over $100.

New Zealand Fabrics & Yarn (based in NZ)

They have a small selection of garment-appropriate fabric, but are predominantly a crafting store (quilting, needlework, felting, etc).

New Zealand Merino & Fabrics (based in NZ)

They have a wide selection of merino fabrics (lots of blends with poly), as the name would suggest. They do also have a ‘fabrics other than merino’ section which seems to always have discounted remnants.

OTY Fabrics (based in NZ)

They have a small selection of of plain and striped cotton spandex knit fabric

The Sewing Store (based in NZ)

They have a small selection of garment fabric, mostly natural fibres.

Silks NZ (based in Christchurch)

They have a large selection of silk, silk blends, bridal fabrics and their Christchurch warehouse is open, by-appointment. They do send samples but I’ve found they can get pricey pretty quickly

Stitchbird Fabrics (based in NZ)

They have a limited selection of of garment fabrics (including Nani Iro) and have A Lot of quilt fabrics.

Studio of Sewing (based in Auckland)

They have a small but lovely selection of imported fabric from MeetMILK and Atelier Brunette. They also print PDF Patterns on to A0 and will post direct to your door.

Verdant Design (based in Wellington)

They have a selection of organic garment fabrics including organic cottons and organic cotton corduroys.

Zingara Organic Fabrics (based in NZ)

They have a selection of brightly coloured print and plain knit fabric. Their selection of solid colour fabrics include some bright, jewel tone colours which are hard to find elsewhere.

Shopping for Sewing Extras

GDL Trading NZ stocks snaps, rivets, tools for leatherworking and more
Greenbeanz NZ stocks snaps, snap presses, and nappy-making items
Lapco stocks a lot of leather and items you might need for leatherworking and leather projects (like bag making)
Minkylicious stocks KAM snaps, snap pliers, snap presses and nappy making supplies

Have I missed any? I’d love to keep the list updated! Let me know in the comments!

Waikerie and Willandra plums

This Willandra Pants and Waikerie Shirt combos is one of my favourite (and most worn) outfit combinations.
Muna and Broad is celebrating a Willandra Pants this week as it seemed like a perfect time to revisit this pattern, which we unfortunately released right in the middle of lockdown- just at the time where nobody was thinking about sewing slightly elevated pants which are a little bit elevated and perfect for workwear.

willandra15

Size Details: I sewed a Size 1 in the Willandra Pants (New Size F), and my Waikerie Shirt is a Size i (New Size E). Not all of the patterns in the range are available in the updated size range, but I included the conversion so that when they are changed over, this info will still be relevant.

Fabric Consumption: My View B of the Waikerie Shirt uses about 2 metres of 150cm wide fabric (so long as your fabric doesn’t have a right or wrong side or a directional print), and I squeezed these Willandra Pants from 2 metres of 150cm wide fabric. This was a tight squeeze with fabric tetris but I got away without needing to cut my pockets from lining fabric.

willandra4

The Willandra Pants have a flat front and elastic back. They have a unique diagonal side seam which was inspired by RTW pants (which weren’t available in plus sizes). These pants feature a diagonal side seam which wraps around the body, and the pockets are built in to the side seam with a unique and tidy finish.

The Waikerie Shirt comes with multiple views- this one is finished with mitered edges and I changed the back from an inverted pleat to a classic ‘menswear shirt style pleat’- I love that style of pleat in shirts. Not pictured, the inside yoke is from white linen and I’ve popped a Stitch Collective label in there too!

willandra10

You might not know that Muna and Broad has been my full-time job/main source of income for a little over 2-months now! It’s amazing to be able to work on this passion project (especially at a time when my health would make it difficult for me to work in an office every day)!

In celebration of our Willandra Week Muna and Broad email newsletter subscribers get a 10% off discount code and if you’re a Maker or Insider supporter on the Muna and Broad Patreon, you’ll have a 15% off discount code to use whenever the mood strikes!